Ultrarunning and Mountain Sports

Having FUN!

2012-01-29T21:15:00.000-08:00

Pleased to say that some reasonable training is continuing and that I am having fun doing it. In fact more than fun – I ran a race, climbed a mountain, did some speed work and a long heat training session as well as firming up my race calendar for the first half of the year, deciding to offer coaching and discussing a film project. Read on for details of that little lot.

So, the race to start with. Two loops of our local park – lots of short little ups and downs, in fact its literally less than 10 mins walk from the front door and it’s where I sometimes do hill reps. A fairly low key local race but billed as the Santa Barbara cross country championships. Previously they have had a 3 and 6 mile event. This year they added the 2-loop 12 mile version as well for all of us distance aficionados. Long time since I raced 12 miles; a veritable sprint that reminded me all too clearly of the Trig Points race I used to run on the first weekend of the year. That was 15 miles with about 1500 ft of ascent this was 12 miles and those with the technology reported it at nearly 2500ft of ascent. I was pretty happy to pull up from about 5^th at halfway to 2^nd overall although I think one person ahead of me got lost and the speed, although very hard work, felt good. Slightly nauseous afterwards and very stiff the next day – racing like the old times!!

Actually the next day did not provide complete respite because we were in Palm Springs for a little vacation and yours truly had spotted a little trail called Cactus to Clouds that the online forums debate as having possibly the most vertical of any single trail in the USA. The start is at 400ft and the top, the summit of San Jacinto is at 10,800 odd. Lynn was game for the 6am start and so we plodded and sweated our way up. We reached snow at about 8000ft and the top of the aerial tramway a short time later. This accesses the upland part of the mountain which are like a rolling plateau. Up there it was bitterly cold. Not too much snow but icy and with a stiff 30mph plus wind so we reached the notch at just under 10,000ft and decided to head back to the tram for a swift descent that saved much knee pounding. It was a great day with amazing views, over 9000ft of vertical to add to the log and sowed seeds of an idea related to the fastest known time from desert to summit and back – this would be a 32 mile outing with 10,400 ft vertical up and down. Winter usually makes the top a challenge and summer certainly makes the lower elevations a challenge as Palm Springs in the summer is an oven.

Climbing from the desert

To a very different climate at 10,000ft

The heat training came this week when, having stashed a gallon of water, I decided to tackle the route of the 35 mile/10,500ft 9-Trails again. This time the thermometer reached 80, I drank all my water and had to work hard to keep the momentum but a hell of a good days training and, once again, I felt reasonably OK the next day. A good tired feeling but no injuries and no DOMS (delayed onset muscle soreness) that happens when you are untrained.

The 9-Trails route: 35 miles, 10,500ft and 80 degrees

Entries now confirmed for all my spring races – Ray Miller 50 mile, Chukanut 50k, Somona 50 mile, Miwok 100km and the San Diego 100 mile so that’s great and I also have the possibility to do the Fellsman. I may never win that wonderful event again but I really do not want to go out on a DNF which is what happened last year after I tore my hamstring so I would be excited to toe the start line on the 50^th anniversary of the event. A 50 mile 2 weeks before and a 100km the weekend after will be a challenge but, if I get through that lot then surely I will be in good shape for San Diego.

...and finally, I have decided to offer Endurance Coaching. It may take a week or two to pull together the website and so on but I figure that 23 years of hard won experience in running Ultras, racing around the world and tackling some big challenges does give me a lot of knowledge and a wealth of opportunity to help others avoid some of the dafter mistakes I have made over the years. Intention is to offer assistance to anyone who wants to run long and to do this mostly as a telephone and online service covering goal setting, creation of a training plan and all those other things – hydration, nutrition, race strategy, kit and so on that go into Ultra-running.

In case you think that all sounds a bit too much then have a look at this and laugh!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nq8lJEJr3xk

Other than that, get out there and enjoy your running.

Training Log:

Sat 14 Jan 6 miles Elings Park

Sun 15 Jan 12 mile race Elings Park. 2^nd place. 1hr 24 mins

Mon 16 Jan 18 miles and 9,000ft. Cactus to Clouds – Mt. San Jacinto

Tue 17 Jan Speed session – 6.5 miles (hill reps plus 3 miles at 6:10 pace)

Wed 18 Jan Rest Day

Thu 19 Jan 16 miles Jesusita to Gibraltar

Fri 20 Jan 6 miles Elings

Week: 64.5 miles, around 16,500ft

Sat 21 Jan 7 miles Inspiration plus 3 miles hash

Sun 22 Jan 21 miles (romero, Blue Canyon, Forbush, Camiono, Romero)

Mon 23 Jan 6 miles fast (beach)

Tue 24 Jan Rest Day

Wed 25 Jan Rest Day

Thu 26 Jan 35 miles – 9 trails

Fri 27 Jan Rest Day

Week: 72 miles, around 16,000ft

Fortnightly running log

2012-01-18T21:38:00.000-08:00

I plan to post my running log here every 2 weeks - not to show off or invite ridicule (depending on how it's going) but mainly to keep myself honest and to motivate myself.

I've never been too fussed about keeping training logs but I notice that most of the people I run with these days seem to know where they are, how fast they are climbing, what minutes per mile they are covering, how far they have been, how many calories they have used and whether their chakras are aligned. They also frequently post pictures of the runs we have been on before I can even get home and log onto the computer.

On that basis, simply recording what I did shouldn't be too onerous...So, here goes:

Sat	31	Dec	44m	Pt. Mugu State Park. Ray Miller Trail
Sun	1	Jan	7m	Pt Mugu State Park. Ray Miller Trail
Mon	2	Jan	Rest	Rest Day
Tue	3	Jan	16m	Jesusita to Gibraltar Road and back
Wed	4	Jan	7m	Inspiration Point
Thu	5	Jan	5m	Elings Park
Fri	6	Jan	15m	East Bay. Steam Trains to Wildcat loop
Total		93 miles, around 15,000ft

Sat	7	Jan	87m bike	Cycle San Francisco to Pt. Reyes and back
Sun	8	Jan	9m	Marin Headlands
Mon	9	Jan	Rest	Rest Day
Tue	10	Jan	4m	Track session (stair repeats and 800metres) 6 sets
Wed	11	Jan	35m	Santa Barbara 9 trails course
Thu	12	Jan	8m	Romero Canyon night run
Fri	13	Jan	Rest	Rest Day
Total		56 miles, around 13,000ft and 87 bike miles

The runningman returns

2012-01-18T15:02:00.000-08:00

Well, it's been a long time since I updated this blog. All the more surprising and unjustified given that I am currently “at leisure”. Partly, I suppose, it’s because 2011 really did not turn out as hoped with much of my running so what was there to report and talk about

Since we are only 3 weeks into the New Year so it still feels OK to make updating this thing regularly part of my resolutions and to start off with a resume of 2011 and an outline of plans for 2012.

In the spring of 2011 I felt fit, recorded my fastest time to date on the High Peak Marathon and was really motivated for the Fellsman. Over the years I have been very fortunate to avoid injury – actually I have been very fortunate to have good natural biomechanics and a natural running style which has kept me away from most injury and overuse problems. I can claim no active credit for any of that since I rarely stretched, often recovered with a nice pint and frequently pushed my luck in terms of sudden mileage increases and running with niggles.

Advancing years have meant that those niggles are more frequent and, to my intense frustration, they boiled over just before the Fellsman into a hamstring injury which “hamstrung” me about 10 miles into the actual race back in May. Now, I am not saying I could have hung with Jez all the way round but we were running and chatting together and have never really raced head to head so it would be been a blast and maybe having someone to push him for at least the first half of the course would have enabled Jez to post the mythical sub 10 hour time that must be out there.

A month or so later and my second major disappointment of the year – a DNF at the 100 mile San Diego race. It’s actually about 2 hours away in the Anza Borrego area – hilly, semi-desert country at around 6-7000ft and is a cracking course. Looking back a few months on it’s clear as day that I simply had not put in enough long days to sustain a 100 mile completion - partly because of cancelled races and pulling out at Fellsman, partly because I simply did not get out there, all weathers, and lay it on the line.

One of the great things about our sport is that you cannot fake it. You can’t drop a few thousand pounds or dollars on carbon and titanium to buy an improvement in outcomes. So, through the summer and autumn, I haven’t really been racing and haven’t really been pushing it – until October or so – and then I started to get a bit more structured and a bit more motivated. With the Quad Dipsea looming for late November I finally realised I needed to start motivating rather more!!

Of course one of the other great truths is that running becomes a virtuous circle. Run and you feel more inclined to run more. Run more and you start to see things that “reward” you for your efforts – a sunset, a hawk hunting, a bobcat, a chance meeting on the trail with someone really interesting – good things happen. Upshot of some half decent training was 8^th place from 233 finishers with no strollers or grandfathers in front of me. With passive cramps setting in around 3 miles from the end I knew I had given it all and I was also delighted to pick up places from around 14^th at half way.

So, a 2012 race schedule is emerging based on new found motivation and, hopefully, injury free running. The main events for now are listed below and a current listing should appear on the right hand side of this blog through the year.

Feb 25 Ray Miller 50 mile
Mar 17 Chuckanut 50k
Apr 15 Lake Sonoma 50 mile
Apr 28 Fellsman? 61 mile
May 05 Miwok 100km
Jun 09 San Diego 100 mile
and then.....?

If all the above makes it sound as though I have not been enjoying the outdoors then I need to redress the balance a little. I have not been racing and training in a structured way but we have been lucky enough to run in some great places such as:

· Santa Cruz Island, Channel Islands, California

- Sespe Wilderness, Los Padres Forest, California

· Red Rocks Canyon, Las Vegas, Nevada

· Gunung Agung, Bali, Indonesia

and, of course, my now local hills here in Santa Barbara where the sun, mostly, shines!!

Mt Pinos and Other Adventures

2011-07-06T16:44:00.000-07:00

a "sea" of indian paintbrush

Last weekend was July 4^th – a big deal over here in the USA . As in the UK this means a long weekend but also loads of crowds and traffic so the trick is to get away but avoid the melee.

Realising that the more accessible part of the Sierra would be packed and with Lynn not keen on a 5 hour each way drive, I was excited to discover that the Wilderness and National Forest areas inland from us reach heights of almost 9000ft. A short trip down the coastal freeway and then a longer twisty, hilly road inland would take us to the Mt Pinos/Mt Abel area which hosts x-country skiing in the winter and offers an opportunity to get up into Pine forest ecosystem in the summer. This is what I was looking for as the sagebrush/chaparral environment is ever present here in Santa Barbara.

After a great breakfast in Ojai we were at the trailhead at the crack of 11.30am – just as the temperatures were really cranking up. I had somewhat underestimated just how hot it gets inland and we were probably hiking in 100 degrees – it certainly felt that way on a mostly uphill trail anyway.

The principal attractions of this area are the flowers – Indian Paintbrush, Lupines, Iris, Snow plants and many many more – in fact, as you can see below – their profusion paints the mountainside.

Overall, it was a pretty chilled weekend apart from an exciting couple of minutes encountering one of my slithery friends. Whilst Lynn took a nap I hiked up to the top of Sawtooth Mountain on the Saturday afternoon – just a few steps before the summit cairn I heard that cricket/cicada/rattling sound that a dimply recognised as a rattlesnakes warning. I saw it move at the same time – just off to the left of the trail, under a small rock ledge. I moved away quickly!! Seeing he was a pretty large specimen I was keen to get a picture but even from 10ft away he was rattling, coiled and poised to strike. I don’t know their strike range but am not keen to find out first hand so let him be.

Prior to last weekend I have had a couple of challenges. The first of these was an extended run into the backcountry locally – setting off up my usual, the Jesusita trail, I continued down to the bottom of Tunnel trail and the ascent all the way to the ridge. Expecting fog (and therefore low temps) all the way to the ridge I was surprised to break through into sun almost immediately. So – the brief record of the day goes something like this – trail uphill for 3000ft – hot – dusty – reach ridge – half of water already gone – getting hotter – decide to shorten planned route – progress along ridge road overtaken by 3 guys on long boards ripping it up – arrive at trailhead for Arroyo Burro trail, no trail in evidence – temporary panic as if I can’t find a trail here I have some unpalatable alternatives – eventually find trail/trod and proceed down – head high thistles – see (yet another) snake – a “racer” this time – trail fades in and out – entering dram/nightmare world of dehydration, heatstroke and lost world landscape – trail at times completely overgrown – start renascent and into dryer more arid terrain – now means overgrown and prickly – birds of prey overhead – they seem to be circling over me – am I lunch. Of course, with hindsight, it was a great mini-adventure and a few people I have spoken to since (but didn’t think to ask before) have all said “Oh yes, the Arroyo Burro trail is pretty sketchy”.

Descending the summit of Mt Pinos in the cool evening

The other challenge is the one of hanging onto the Santa Barbara cycling group who head out Tuesdays and Thursdays on a 35 mile loop from downtown. It all starts innocently enough – steady pace – turns at front – me learning to pack ride – and then at some invisible signal it goes mental and the pack accelerates. Tuesday I hung on – helped by a couple of 60-70 year olds. Thursday they were at Bingo and I was dropped like a dog. I am assured it was nothing personal – not my lack of bike riding skills, not the impertinence of having Campagnolo kit on a bike in the USA – just that these SB guys like to hammer it.

Oh, and then yesterday. I had made a passing comment about times for Gibraltar Road so found out that there is a time trial race up it in February and that the record time is around 49 minutes with 1hr 10 being regarded as half decent for a training ride and showing potential to beat the hour in the race. Well, you know me. That meant I had to go for a little ride – just to see. Well, I think I know why they hold it in February – I boiled my head, scorched my lungs, broke down all the muscle fibres in my legs and damn near threw up at the top. Suffice to say – the hour looks possible for the race but 49 minutes might require some serious EPO type “vitamins” or some contaminated meat :)

Lupins carpet the forest floor

Training!

2011-06-14T10:32:00.000-07:00

As my good friend and experienced ultra-runner said to me at mile 59, “training, it’s a good idea to do some”

That pretty much sums up the weekend – you can’t fake being fit enough to run 100 miles so Saturday exposed that fact that I was 50 mile or 60 mile fit but not 100 mile fit.

How was that? A combination of factors – the Lake Sonoma 50 mile got cancelled, I had a chest infection that affected my training in the 3 weeks up to Fellsman, withdrew from that race after 12 miles with a torn hamstring and thus did no more than about 25 miles per week over the past 4 weeks. So more rested than trained then!!

On the day there were some schoolboy errors too – I dimly registered that the race would be up at 6000ft but dismissed it. In truth the altitude was not significant although you do just about fee it uphill. More significant is that a semi desert environment at altitude has some important characteristics the runner needs to prepare for – very low humidity, high day-time temperatures, low night-time temperatures and a stronger exposure to the sun. These were the main factors that caused the “drop” as I only covered 65 of the 100 miles.

In essence, I got a little dehydrated early on although I did pull this back and was good by the early evening, I got fried by the sun during the day and should have worn a hat or visor and, once the sun set, I simply could not keep warm. As others powered into the night in vest and shorts I was wearing long sleeved top, windproof, hat, gloves and buff and still shivering whilst climbing uphill. These are the circumstances when it makes sense to avoid becoming a liability and so, around 1 mile after leaving the mile 64 aid station I turned around and headed back down the hill.

You may think that I would be really down about yet another DNF but strangely not. I need to reflect a little longer on the reasons it bugs me less and on what actions I will take as a result but the experience of the weekend was overwhelmingly positive for a number of reasons:

The course and scenery were amazing and well exceeded my mental picture of what it would be like. Nearly all singletrack, sometimes technical, trail through mature open forest with shallow lakes giving way to rocky sometimes barren open ridges with expansive views down several thousand feet to the Anza Borrego desert
Wonderful support and crewing from Lynn who kept me going, persuasively countered my whinging and was all set to get up at 3am to pace me the final 13 miles
The community of Ultra and catching up with some great people who I haven’t seen for a while
Sustained effort and concentration with a single purpose. Our lives are so fractured, dissected and distracted that its almost a luxury to thing “today I will be mostly running” and nothing else.

The aftermath has been exquisite stiffness but no injuries and, on the journey back from San Diego, the purchase of my US wheels – a VW Passat Estate/Wagon – the 4wheel drive version all ready for the mountains and the ski season.

Enough for now – gotta run!!

Plan B takes shape

2011-06-07T14:29:00.000-07:00

Well, today's little 5 mile run out to the local park and along the beach confirmed that the offending Hamstring is now feeling fine. The rest of the body feels wrecked but that's another matter.

So, Plan B will be put into effect - that is to say that this Saturday I will try to run a 100 mile race in San Diego. Those who know me may recall that I officially gave up running 100 mile races about 3 years ago so I fear this may turn into yet another one of those multiple "retirements" from a sport where the comebacks are gradually less memorable!!

Anyway - first thing is that it is actually 100.1 miles (and that's before I add any detours and navigation errors). The second thing is that I don't intend to race this one. Several people have instructions to trip me up or knock me to the ground if I am remotely near the front of the race.

It seems unlikely but I actually want to take this one pretty slow, soak up a course and a part of the world I have never visited before and see if I can finish feeling good. You see, behind the Plan B there is a Plan C lurking in the wings and whilst it would be too early to "open my kimono" about that; suffice to say that finishing a 100 feeling like you could tackle another one is pretty important.

So, Saturday 7am in the Al Bahr campground, Laguna - inland from San Diego - should see me having fun for all of Saturday and a reasonable bit of Sunday.

Heron and Bobcat visit the back yard

Meantime, I am keen to rave about the wildlife we have in our back yard here in Santa Barbara - lizards we like, snakes we don't, Coyotes we have seen but yesterday we were blessed with a double. In the morning a Blue Heron and in the evening twilight a young Bobcat. Check the pictures. More will follow on Monday. 'till then - happy trails!

Disappointment

2011-05-16T02:51:00.001-07:00

Disappointment - yes, frustration - yes!! I pulled out of the Fellsman on Saturday at mile 12 with a hamstring tear.

It had been tight coming off Ingleborough but quite suddenly "went" on the steep part of the descent off Whernside. Whilst it is only twinging today it cut my pace in half at the time and was clearly not going to appreciate another 50 miles of use.

There is the obvious disappointment that we all feel when getting injured and having to pull out of a race but there is also the fact that I felt great on the day and was massively looking forward to a right good battle with Jez. Going back a couple of months it looked as though Duncan Harris would be with us too and that would have been epic but he got sidelined with a stress fracture. Now, I am not saying I could have beaten Jez - he is a very classy performer - but I am saying I wanted to really push it and take it to the wire. It's the terrain I would choose for a friendly showdown and having a couple of people pushing each other is the way to get best performances.

It also puts a big question mark on my other plans for the summer.

After a days reflection (and moping around) here's my thinking...Looking positively, it was the Fellsman that motivated my training for the past 3 months. The cancellation of Sonoma 50 and the drop on Saturday mean that the fitness has not really been tested but everything else tells me that it's good and that I am in better shape than for the past few years.

Of course I now need patience, I need to address the root cause of the injury (my posture) rather than the symptoms and I need to retain the focus to do whatever I can whilst it heals so that the damage won't be too bad. Finally, each day that I can't run I need to commit to memory the re-discovered enjoyment I found this spring from being able and motivated to run so that I get right back into it when I can.

I need a few days to see how the recovery is and figure out a Plan B. Meanwhile I must congratulate both Jez Braggs and Nicky Spinks - both ran wonderful, well paced races to set new course records. In Nicky's case she knocked over 40 minutes off her own best time and Jez, without the diversions around Middle Tongue would surely have posted the mythical sub-10 hour time. Well done both!!

A road to the sky and Miwok Indians

2011-05-08T22:42:00.000-07:00

OK, so the ride of the Camino Cielo went great. The climb up from the town is about 3500ft in 6 to 7 miles along the Gibraltar Road. For the most part it was well graded and an “in saddle” job rather than standing on the pedals. I didn’t take a time for just the climb but that might be a good thing because I have since discovered that Lance Armstrong and the Discovery team used to train on this climb and also that its part of a century ride in which the leading riders complete the ascent in around 40 minutes. I think I was a little more pedestrian than that!!

The reward – a ride along the rolling ridge for several miles was sweet and the descent of “Painted Cave” road was steep and, in parts, a bit rough but nothing worse than I am used to on Staffordshire lanes so I was surprised to read that the Painted Cave descent is a bit notorious for being dangerous. Maybe that’s true if you have confidence – I just took it all at snail’s pace.

That was at the beginning of the week since when my explorations of the local area have continued a little, my collection of poison oak itches and scratches has grown a little and my cough has slowly improved. I’ll admit to a great degree of frustration – training this spring has gone really well and I was looking forward to really pushing for a good time at Fellsman next Saturday. Of course I will be there but I really feel that the chest infection of the past 2 weeks has scuppered my chances of doing the kind of time I was looking for. Still, it is what it is and I just need to keep the focus and make the most of the fitness I hope I have developed.

5:40am beach start for the 400+ Miwok 100km runners

This weekend was fun – pacing Krissy Moehl at the 100km Miwok race in the Marin Headlands just north of San Francisco. I did this race in 2009 and it was truly, awfully wet and cold. Wasn’t supposed to be, in fact I had been warned it might be really hot but, on the day, mild hypothermia was the result and a finish in just under 10 hours. Almost identical, in fact, to the time Krissy posted yesterday. She had high hopes of a win and maybe a course record but nausea decided to have a say in the matter and it seemed that the course changes had made things harder as neither the men or the women approached record times.

Race leaders still packed together at mile 41

Still, super fun to see the racing, great to spend some time with Krissy and watch the single minded determination that has seen her win UTMB and many other races and good to catch up with Topher, Kim and other running friends over here.

Ian Sharman - fastest 100 miler on US soil (12hrs 44mins!) scores a top 10 spot as Elvis

So, next Saturday is the Fellsman. I was going to suggest some odds for leading men and women but since the start list is not available I will just state the blindingly obvious which is that Jez has to be favourite in the men – part of his build up for Western States in about 6 weeks and Nicky Spinks is looking pretty invincible for the ladies. I believe that Duncan Harris is unfortunately side-lined with injury and yours truly is certainly making excuses about the recent illness but will probably still push for a time that starts with 10 somthing to improve on last year’s 11.30 Let’s see – as I understand it the conditions are pretty dry underfoot so if it’s not too hot, it could be a fast one.

First Steps

2011-05-02T09:48:00.000-07:00

The big move - Truckin' USA

So, the big news is that I will be spending some time in Santa Barbara, California. Lynn found work down here and it’s a great place to get fit and pursue my business ideas.

The past 10 days have been a little crazy. We got about 4 days notice of the job start so rushed to find accommodation, rent a truck, pack everything up in the Bay Area and head down here. On top of the all-nighter I regularly pull before going away and an extended flight over here as the original one was cancelled due to the storms in the east of the USA, this was the ideal recipe for getting sick. It’s very frustrating because I have been fine all winter and looking after myself but is seems as though I will never learn. Getting overtired before taking long plane journeys really is a recipe for picking up infections.

The bike ride I wrote about last time really helped the infection set-in and so the past week has been characterised by my spluttering and hacking, useless cough. Doubly frustrating because all the hard training leading to Fellsman seems like it’s going to waste and also because there is a wonderful range of hills/mountains on my doorstep and I can hardly get out there to do them justice.

My new back garden - trailhead 2 miles from house

Things improving, however, and I made my first steps into the Front Country – as it is called. This is a range of hills going up to about 4,000ft from sea level. Plenty of trails, some a little overgrown, mostly well graded, some quite rocky.The terrain is pretty rugged with lots of sandstone outcroppings. Reminiscent of the high chaparral - imagine native american indians behind every bluff with bow and arrow. Much of the area I have run in so far was burned by the big Jesusita fire two years ago - it took out about 300 houses and, believe it or not, we met someone yesterday who managed to take out insurance AFTER the fire started and 8 hours before his house got burned!!

Inspiration point - 1750' up from the coast

Much more exploring to do but today is a bike day (with no bees hopefully) to climb from the sea to the Camino Cielo road that runs along the first ridge inland at about 3,500ft. Given the clear blue sky that greets every day and the midday temps of around 80-85F, I expect a roasting!!

The blog is back!

2011-04-17T14:52:00.000-07:00

Well finally, after a huge break, the blog is back.

...and with it comes a new commitment to regular updates from both the UK and the US as well as, just fer giggles, I am going to start running some odds for a few of the UK races and racers just so we can see how wrong I can be.

First though, a very quick update on the past few months. I really wasn’t very fit or motivated in 2010. After scraping a 2nd place in the Fellsman and a win (although we were not the fastest runners) in the Scottish Islands Peaks race my fitness fell away dramatically. Why? – a cold/bug in June, lots of travel to London as part of my contract and soon I was out of the habit of training much.

This culminated in late November with me getting a pretty nasty neck problem – something along the lines of a herniated disc in my neck but that’s not confirmed and not on my medical records so it didn’t happen right! What did happen was that I got massive shoulder and right arm pains, couldn’t sleep more than 1 hour for a week and ended up with some codeine painkillers.

The great news is that less than 6 weeks later I was running again, feeling good and starting to get motivated – all thanks to my talented Physical Therapist (and wife) Lynn.

Well, the thing about fitness and motivation is that its possible to develop a virtuous circle. It’s like the vicious one only friendlier – a bit of training produces positive feelings which encourages a bit more training which produces.... and so it goes on.

An early Feb outing over some of the boggiest bits of the High Peak Marathon route went badly and one of my good friends confidently pronounced me “over the hill” but then, in the actual event, we recorded our fastest time – also the 2nd fastest ever; amazing to think that some 20 years on from my first HPM I would be recording a PB.

The Marin Crew - Topher, Krissy, Nate, Amy, Jason and Kim - Devon resting out of picture!

The good vibe has continued and I am now building up to Fellsman. Looks like this year could be a humdinger with Jez Bragg scheduled to run. I was hoping Duncan (last year’s winner) would also be there but seems he has picked up a stress fracture. Anyway, I am psyched to get the chance to run against Jez and see what the gap is.
Most recently I was slated to run a 50 mile race (actually I thought it was 50km when I entered it) in Northern California but, in contrast to our rather dry winter, they have had some record rains so the course was flooded and the organiser was not prepared to turn it into a run-swim-run duathlon so the event was cancelled. The resulting training weekend was probably tougher than the race with some very high class company as you might recognise from this picture.

OK – off to the hills for a couple of days to get some good miles in then I will update on plans for the next few months and a bit of an announcement! – yes, the old dog is going to attempt something audacious. Check back to find out what soon!!

Today I lost a running friend...

2010-09-22T13:16:00.000-07:00

My beloved collie, Islay, reached the end of her race of life today. A few days shy of her 16^th birthday she needed a major operation that there was little chance she would recover from and so, with a little help from modern medicine, the lights went out.

Back in 1994 we selected one of a litter of six from a VHS video and then drove all the way up to Kirkcaldy in Fife to pick-up our little bundle of fur. That bundle of fur grew rapidly into a spindly youth, sustained mostly it seemed by chewing everything around her – thank goodness the furniture was mostly hand me downs or acquired from local newspaper adverts.

With hindsight – she started her running career a little too young and a little too adventurously – but that’s no surprise really considering the passion and training miles I clocked up in those days. As a 5 month old – she struggled in the deep heather and snow one January day around Moel Famau but she gradually developed the economical slightly crabbing gait and prodigious endurance of a true collie.

By the time she was 2 she was comfortable completing races like the Edale Skyline and keeping me company on days out in Wales and the Lakes. At the end of the run I would usually have to endure a 2-3 hour drive in the car and arrive home ready for a lie down and a cup of tea. She would sleep the whole journey through and arrive home ready for more!!

Islay was named from a Scottish Island and on a windswept but beautiful beach in the outer Hebrides she discovered “bunched up running” – unique to Islay and a comical – tail between the legs – back legs ahead of front legs style only used for occasions of extreme joy. On a snowy Coniston Old Man in the Lake District she discovered tobogganing- stick the nose in the snow and plough forwards with the back legs - creating a bow wave of snow.

Mostly Islay was trouble free – the occasional escape to explore the local countryside provided a few worries but visits to the Vet were rare – except , that is, for the 6 month period when she managed to get rolled over under the front of a car (miraculous escape), stung by a bee inside her nose (expensive New Years eve vet visit) knocked out by a horse (bloody nose and a few seconds unconscious but no harm done) and swallowed a Duplo people duvet – worried examination of “output” to ensure it had passed through the system.

Dogs are sensitive to fear and emotions in others and Islay was a silent but knowing companion in tough times. She also knew the meaning of bravado – her furious, yelping, spitting indignation of cats quickly turned into a hasty retreat if they stood their ground.

Collies are also highly intelligent and she learnt to pace herself – me and no pack meant a run of less than 90 minutes, a pack meant it could be a good run out and the presence of Craig usually meant an adventure. She knew these things.

Islay and I shared some great running miles and a few mishaps – once we were running with a small group of Harriers alongside a frozen canal with a sprinkling of snow on. At least I recognised it was a frozen canal but maybe she didn’t – at a recess in the path she confidently jumped down onto the “road” only to disappear through the thin ice for what was probably less than a second but felt like an age. Her eyes were so wide as I hauled her out. Another time, towards the end of a Peris Horseshoe round with my mate Craig it became obvious that her pads, unused to the rigours of scree and rock, had worn down and blistered painfully. She sat down and whimpered so I got to carry her over my shoulders all the way down Snowdon on a busy summer’s afternoon. The fur ruff on a hot day wasn’t too bad but the incessant licks of gratitude made me rather sticky.

Islay – you bought joy to many lives and you will be missed

Scottish Island Peaks - race report

2010-05-24T14:20:00.001-07:00

The story of the 2010 race - hot and calm - sunburn and rowing

Commenting that I would be back in the office Monday morning – wind permitting – was intended to be light-hearted. Whilst it’s obvious you cannot sail without wind, none of us could imagine the hours and hours of rowing that would be required to win this year’s Scottish Island Peaks Race (SIPR).

The SIPR brings together runners and sailors to compete over some of the finest parts of Western Scotland. Starting in Oban at noon on the Friday it takes in mountains on Mull, Jura and Arran before finishing over on the mainland at Troon. The 60 miles of running include some of the roughest terrain around on Jura and a total of around 12,000ft of climbing. The circa 160 nautical miles of sailing include some of the most challenging waters in the world with tidal gates, numerous wrecks, hidden dangers and the famous Correyvrekan whirlpool; 3^rd largest in the world with currents up to 8.5 knots.

Chimera - F31R - our home for the weekend

It was 6 or 7 years since I had enjoyed this mini adventure and, in the words of Jake Elwood from the Blues Brothers movie, we were getting the team back together. Alex Johnson – fellow runner, Ian Loffhagen – skipper and 3 times previous winner and Spencer Harrison – powerhouse, oarsman and crew from our successful campaign in 2004. Graham Goff was the new team member but already had 2 SIPR victories to his name, has made sails for a living and was involved with the infamous Team Phillips boat that spectacularly failed in the North Atlantic (but not his fault!)

Getting 50 boats out of Oban harbor at about the time the CalMac ferry steams in could be a nightmare so the organizers invoked a “le mans” style start a few years ago meaning that us runners get a 4.5 mile run up the local hill and surrounding countryside to split up the field. The Oban Slip trophy is huge and is sometimes hotly contested by the youth teams whilst the more senior runners save their energies for the mountains that will soon follow. This year, however, Scottish Internationalists Don Naylor and Dan Gay were first to don lifejackets and leap into their team dinghy for the quick transfer to their boat. Alex and I were about 6^th or 7^th team back and soon the bay was alive with boats sailing out of the harbor. Actually, that’s not quite true, the bay was filled with boats being frantically rowed where possible and generally bobbing around at the huge CalMac ferry approached at around 20 knots. Like the parting of the red sea they all managed to get to the edges of the bay and carnage was avoided

Within minutes our boat, Chimera, was nudging to the front of the fleet and before too long we were picking up some intermittent breezes. By Salen on Mull, the team had given us a comfortable lead and so Alex and I were able to transfer to shore and submit to the compulsory kit check without hassle or pressure. Mull is a 23 mile run up and down Ben More – a full Munro from sea level but with around half the route on roads. Back in 2004 Alex had suffered a little on the road back to Salen but I had no idea how much this had etched on his memory until he detoured to pass on his respects to the phone box where both legs had locked solid with cramp back then. This time it was me who faded a little over the final mile or two back to the jetty – the heat of the day getting to me as my water bottle had run dry over 30 minutes earlier. Quickly back aboard the sailing team confirmed we had started with a lead of 1 hour 20 mins and we hoped we would have preserved at least an hour of this. For a short while we were whooshing along at 8-10 knots but within an hour, as dusk settled, it was flat calm.

This set the tone for that first night…and the second!! By midnight we had finally entered the sound of Jura and, in the early hours, the team made a decision to head West of Jura. “Which way to Jura?” is the biggest route choice of the race – avoiding 5knot foul tides but taking a route almost 11 miles longer is the Western option and one we had never taken before. Of course, once committed it’s impossible to change course and for hour after hour we toiled away on the oars wondering if we might possibly hove into Craighouse bay and see much of the rest of the fleet already moored up with runners on the hill. We did see other boats and we even saw boats leaving but they were youth teams whose boats had motored. In the overall stakes we were still in top spot and, by 4pm, Alex and I were running along the Jura shoreline - past families dining al fresco Mediterranean style in the afternoon heat – headed for the Paps. The Paps of Jura are world renowned for their roughness. Comprised of tottering heaps of quartzite scree they present a few small paths and trods and acres of ankle breaking boulder fields. Back in 04 we had scorched this route but today the heat once again took its toll and scorched us - we even stopped for a few pics before trucking along the road back from the 3 arch bridge with Alex working hard; one all in the fiercely competitive internal and unspoken battle we were having - both on the same team but massively competitive with each other!!

Alex climbing the first pap on Jura

One of the teams who motored to Jura - taking a little time out!

With glass calm seas, Graham at the helm coaxed almost 5 knots out of nowhere and we slipped away from Jura in the late evening as much of the fleet struggled to get past the small isles and into the bay.

By midnight, though, we were back to the oars and taking turns to fight sleep, row, make tea, helm and simply be mesmerized by the luminescence in the water. The nighttime hours pass in a blur – at one point Ian and Graham put the boat on autohelm and rowed for 2 hours solid, at one point it rained, at some point there was a squall and the boat fizzed along at 10 knots for an hour or so.

Dodging rocks on the Mull of Kintyre

Tense times as we navigate the rocks off the Mull of Kintyre

Sunday morning – in previous years we have finished by this point but this time we are rounding the Mull of Kintyre – adverse tides of 2-3 knots are going to see us heading backwards so Ian bravely takes the decision to go right inshore where the current is weaker and continue rowing; anything to make forward progress at all times. For hours on end we are all occupied, one at the helm, 2 rowing, one lookout for rocks and one on the “exercise bike” human propeller or tidying up or making tea etc.

Nothing is more fickle than the wind. One minute Ian is calling his wife, Liz, to confirm we will not be at Troon before Monday morning, less than an hour later we are skimming the waves at 16 knots and a 10pm finish looks possible.

Heaven - skimming the waves at Ferry speed

We pull into Lamlash at around 16.20 and Alex and I set off for Goatfell. I knew that the competitive Alex was in charge from the off and he set a furious pace, running all the first climb over to Brodick and all the way up beyond the forest edge on Goat Fell. The pace didn’t lessen on the descent either and by the time we climbed Prospect hill on the return I knew beyond doubt that the internal competition was a 2:1 result to youth. Running back along the bay into Lamlash I was blowing, huffing, puffing and groaning all to stop him dropping me completely but the time of 3 hrs 24 was good – around 40 minutes faster than we had managed in 2004 and ensuring a faster time for the three runs overall.

Goatfell summit - Arran

So, an epic. Truly. Curious seals, wild mountain goats, phosphorescence, unprecedented heat, porpoise and a palm full of blisters all added to the list of experiences that the SIPR has catalogued in my mind. For Ian, a record 4 victories and I have been privileged enough to accompany him on all four – with 3 different boats and 2 different runners. The secret – I think it’s simple – 5 people sharing a common goal, making all decisions based on achievement of that goal and working ceaselessly, night and day, to pursue that goal. Put simply – I think Ian is more prepared than any other skipper, the crew is hugely talented and the team as a whole is prepared to work harder than any other – first on the oars, thinking ahead, making decisions.

Bliss - after 59 hours, Spencer checks in to confirm the victory!

Scottish Islands Peaks race

2010-05-19T12:36:00.001-07:00

The month of May always used to be crazy. Its when I would get into trouble; booking myself up for races every weekend and neglecting my commitments. It's my favourite month of the year as new life explodes all around and the evenings draw out. It's my daughters middle name. The blossom, new leaves, nesting birds, lambs and warm sun bring forth in abundance the possibility and potential that the buds of early spring hinted at.

To me, the Fellsman and Scottish Islands Peaks race epitomise the best of this month. The Fellsman - a glorious day long romp across a great swathe of Yorshire's finest and then the SIPR - a weeks worth of runing, sailing and adventure packed into about 40-48 hours.

After a break of 7 years I will be returning to the delights of the SIPR again this weekend and am full of anticipation.

eagles on Mull
dolphins and Otters
rowing against the 5knot tidal current to avoid being pulled back into Correyveckan
waking up to the sound of the hull buzzing as our boat skimmed across the water in the early dawn at 20 knots
descending the first of the Paps of Jura in the night and watching the sparks fly as we crashed down the scree
rowing from 2nd place into the lead
beach start with a 28ft trimaran off Aran.

These are the kind of memories that the SIPR can give.

I have a little trepidation too - Alex, my running partner is much younger and, although Fellsman was 2 weeks ago, I wonder whether I have fully recovered.

Still, get started and deal with what arises is the way so........i'll try to update on Sunday, assuming we are not still on the water!!!

Fellsman - again!!

2010-05-11T14:37:00.001-07:00

There are many phrases and euphemisms to describe it – a glass half full, one door opens another closes, a curates egg – since time immemorial it has been an immutable fact of life that we get our opportunities and challenges in broadly equal measure; what we do with them is down to us and us alone.

First off, let me say I think its great that someone can run Fellsman in around 14 hours and then come back the next year and win the event. I didn’t get the chance to really understand how well prepared Duncan Harris was this time around but I do sense he had his lines right and was well trained and motivated for the performance. I also sympathise with Steve Birkinshaw – he was clearly so much fitter than me and will know that he is unlikely to see a repeat of the stomach problems that bedeviled him around Middle Tongue – nevertheless, its one more thing he has to deal with and rationalise in the run up to his Lakes 24 hour record round.

As for me – if you had told me 2 months ago I would get 2^nd place I would have laughed. I was running 15 miles/week or less and didn’t have an entry in. By the weekend before, that over inflated sense of self ability that propelled me to many a challenge had returned and I was even thinking of the win. But I know how dangerous that bravado can be – it took me to 3^rd place at mile 80 of 100 in one of the world’s elite races only to crash and burn to 28^th spot by the finish line.

What last weekend gave me was some discouragement as I toiled up climbs I know I have run in races gone by – the long drag up Blea Moor, the stony track out of Stonehouse – no way could I float up these last weekend. It gave me some discouragement as I slipped from 2^nd to 4^th to 6^th and realized I was somehow missing the vistas, the birdsong, the ever changing pattern of sun and clouds dappling the hillsides. And it gave me discouragement as I was reacquainted with one of the age old dilemmas of distance running – food is fuel, eating is a struggle and nausea is a persistent companion you carry with you. Then, without warning, it gave me quiet satisfaction as a better line brought me back to 4^th spot and a bit of determined running consolidated that, it gave me encouragement as Simon vocally demonstrated that he was feeling as nauseous as me and I ran a solid section over to Middle tongue back into 3^rd and it gave me amazement as I first passed Steve over to Hells Gap and then held off repeated challenges over the remaining 15 miles. My god – I ran up much of Great Whernside and felt like some of those last 20 miles were covered as quickly as I have ever covered them.

Coming into Redshaw

So, what to make of all this? A comeback or a fluke? Where do we go from here. There has always been a part of me that wanted to set an emphatic record on this race and I was arrogant enough to believe I could go under 10 hours but it never happened. Is it impossible now? This is balanced by the desire to see Fellsman as the Grand Prix of UK distance running – the Western States of the UK – with top UK and overseas runners racing head to head to set that sub 10 hour time. I would be a bystander for such a contest – presumably? …and actually I have always loved the solitude on that race…running alone for hours on familiar terrain, mentally and physically ticking off each section, monitoring the internal systems, taking in the environment; not pressured by anyone else but putting the ultimate pressure on myself – the race of truth.

So, many questions but, at this moment, precious few answers. There are two things I am very clear about though:

the race takes more out of me as I get older, I felt trashed on Monday :)
running long has beauty, power and grace - it cleanses the soul - it matters everything and nothing. If you aren't alraedy doing it you should start - life will change.

An ultra-runner - again!

2010-04-16T12:06:00.000-07:00

Calderdale Hike

It’s been quiet on here for a while. Mainly that’s because it’s been quiet on the running front for me. Constant pain from the knees acts as a powerful disincentive for training. Couple it with the dark winter weather and the feeling every time I ran that I had been hit by a truck and you get a picture of a more sedentary life. Besides which, Lynn has been feeling mellower about running and racing. As I said to a few people – the fire used to burn bright from within, now it is a glowing log on the grate – something to warm my toes in front of and toast the odd marshmallow.

Four weeks ago I took the runfurther banners to Wuthering and spent a little time snapping some pictures. It was a bitterly cold day but the enjoyment on everyone’s faces was evident and I got the chance to reminisce a little about some classics like the Fellsman and the Scottish Islands Peaks race.

The day left me chomping at the bit to run a little myself so early on the Sunday morning I decided to head out of the door and trot around the Macclesfield Harriers club handicap route. Hallelujah – the knees didn’t hurt, I heard skylarks, found 20p on the trail and generally felt more alive than I had done for weeks. Somehow I had forgotten how life affirming running over the hills can be.

With all my layers of excuses peeled away it seemed only reasonable to run again on the Monday – lunchtime – and once again it was great. Well, carpe diem has long been my motto so before the day was out, entries for the Calderdale (36 miles) and Fellsman (61 miles) were in the post. In fact my entry for the Fellsman was well timed as the event has filled for the first time in many years and the organizers have had to turn dozens away.

Serendipity so often plays a part in proceedings and so it was an unexpected but delightful surprise when, the very next day, I received an email from Ian Loffhagen explaining that we wanted to put team in for the Scottish Islands race once more and asking if I would run. Wow!! This is a real honour, whilst I expect that sailors don’t slow much with age I am sure runners do but Ian seemed content that I find a suitable partner and there is no better man than Alex – “Woo Ha Ram It” team cyclist extraordinaire and my running partner from our last successful entry into this race back in 2004. I love it when a plan comes together!!

So, with the training upped from around 10 miles/week (I’m serious) to 50-55miles/week what could I do with the Calderdale? A week before the race I gave myself a stiff talking to and set off from home in sleet to drive to Sowerby and run the course. I was lucky, it stayed dry whilst I was out and I persevered to do the whole course. It took over 7 hours though and felt hard. Maybe 6 hours would be a good target for race day. Saturday went well; despite being aware of the dangers of setting off too fast (based on running memory rather than running capability) I hung with the leading group and was in 4^th at halfway. It seemed obvious that Jon Morgan was running well within himself – able to catch up to the lead at will and looking relaxed. Simon Bourne was breathing hard as he passed me though and I sensed that Martin Beale was working hard to open a lead from the front in the hope that he could then use his superior route knowledge to slip away. Maybe 22 years of racing and running long has given me a keen eye for the weak deer in the pack because, sure enough, I reeled Simon in on the climb up to Thieveley Pike and then overhauled Martin on the short rough section skirting below Trough Edge End on Inchfield Moor where the heat of the day was making itself felt more than a little.

Jon was always going to be way too strong for me but I was delighted and surprised with 2^nd place and with a finish time of 5 hours 31. Of course a few things hurt afterwards but it’s a massive motivator and I am now 100% certain to overcook it at Fellsman. Keep checking back for more progress updates to the big blow-up on May 8^th!!

Welsh Wanderings

2010-02-01T07:27:00.000-08:00

After missing the worst/best winter weather for many years I was hankering after a mini-adventure and the weekly forecast seemed to be promising some clear skies and cold temperatures for last weekend so plans started to form.
The 15 mountains over 3000ft in Wales (the Welsh 3000s) are arrayed in 3 compact groups around Snowdon, the Glyders and the Carneddau. Steve Watts, Ross Litherland and I had enjoyed a run around them at about the same time last year and having covered the route 4 or 5 times over the years I knew it to be a good day out – especially for this time of year where there will certainly be some darkness hours to heighten the experience. So, the objective was set but what about fellow conspirators. Well, one person who can be relied upon for some potentially foolhardy fun in the hills is Steve Watts so, with Ross on the other side of the world, it was going to be a 2-up this time around.

The start of an adventure

The 5am alarm after a full working week was pretty unwelcome but you do what you have to do and I was soon on autopilot with the soothing sounds of Farming Today whisking me along the A55. By 8am we had a car placed at the finish point in Aber and were at the starting point of Pen-y-pass to see a clear dawn freshened by a biting north-westerly. As we ascended the shoulder of Crib Goch we started to encounter increasing amounts of verglas with some patches of old and very firm neve. Our “weapons of choice” for the day were Kahtoola flexible crampons – designed to be worn over running shoes – and set to be indispensible as the freeze/thaw action of the previous 2 weeks had turned the old snow into solid boilerplate. Of course putting crampons on early would be a great idea but we put it off and put it off until, teetering on the edge of friction, we finally bowed to the inevitable having made the job 10 times harder by waiting.

Getting to grips with the Crib Goch ridge

Once suitably shod, the rest of the NW ridge presented no difficulties and we were soon stepping out onto the famed Crib Goch ridge with just one set of fresh prints ahead of us. It was clear that this was going to be a classic day – clear skies, some challenging snow conditions and up before the crowds. We shared Snowdon summit with only one other person (try coming up here in June and doing that!!) and were soon trotting down the line of the summer railway to search out the steep descent to Nant Peris.

Across the Glyders

The Welsh mountains have fine character but they are arrayed in discrete groups and are close to the sea so, the near 3000ft descent to the first main valley took a lot out of the knees and raised temperatures by about 10 degrees. In fact it was to be one of those days where constant adjustments are needed to keep the temperature balance. With the first bag of hot cross buns dispatched we toil up the slopes of Elidir Fawr and re-enter the winter wonderland. The crampons are needed again half way up Y Garn and as we descend to Llyn y Cwn we see the big yellow bird. No, not something from Sesame Street but the RAF Sea King helicopter. It seems that its not just the usual practice exercise but an airlift of someone who tried to descend from Glyder Fawr without crampons and found a very quick way down. Indeed there are a few people trying this and we overhear one pass on sage advice to his girlfriend – “don’t hit the rocks too hard” – a wise man!

No crampons = consequences. Thanks Kahtoola!

This whole section is wonderful – wind behind us, wonderful ice rime and neve, a dusting of new snow, sun in the sky. Soon we are descending the gully down to Bwlch Tryfan and, guess what, the helicopter makes a second appearance to airlift another unfortunate soul who took the fast way down. The clatter and throb of the helicopter is amazing as he hovers 100ft above us. Whilst its reassuring to know that they are “to hand” should we need them it certainly makes us want to hurry along and get out of their way. The descent of the West gully from Tryfan demands care and attention but should be the last of the technical difficulties and we hasten on to a much anticipated cup of tea at Ogwen.
Sitting on the wall at Ogwen brings back vivid memories of the year before. Everyone else is coming off the hill, looking forward to a shower, a bath, an evening in the warmth with a beer in hand. And us? We are setting off into the Carneddau – the biggest upland area in Snowdonia. We know that it will be dark in an hour and we will be above 3000ft for quite a few miles. It is excitement and apprehension mixed but you have to live outside the comfort zone now and again. You have to taste a little fear to appreciate security, you have to hurt a little to enjoy simple comforts and, in any case, nature will have some experiences for us – experiences that we simply won’t get by bobbling around for a couple of hours in the sunshine – she doesn’t disappoint. Over the ensuing 4 hours we get snowed on, we get into the cloud so that distances and judgement of terrain go haywire, we get to see the street lights 3000ft below – so tantalizingly close but yet miles and miles away – and we get to see the majestic full moon peeking through billowing clouds and casting its cold light on the snowy slopes.

If its bling you want then look around – ice crystals falling from a clear sky, rocks encrusted with diamond rime ice, the moon like a huge opal hanging in the sky.

Bring on the night!

Well, time passes, legs get weary, tops are ticked off and, before we know it, it’s time to descend to the valley. Car to car is 13 hours this time – about an hour slower than last year but conditions account for some of that and I am really quite unfit! So, the Welsh 3’s – a great mini-adventure, especially for the winter if you are OK with the conditions and navigation. Of course, it’s really quite foolhardy in some ways so I wouldn’t recommend it to anyone except those who want to live a little!

The John Muir Trail

2009-08-07T13:30:00.000-07:00

Garnet Peak - highlight of day 3

Incredible, Exhausting, Inspiring. It is difficult to avoid superlatives when talking about the John Muir Trail. The clarity of light, the intensity of the vast night-time skies, the diversity of flora and fauna – all combine with the rarefied atmosphere to take your breath away day after day as you wend through valleys and climb a succession of higher and more rugged passes.

In true Hartell fashion, one or two key elements of the escapade were done on a wing and a prayer. Having travelled to Yosemite a day early in order to obtain “walk-up” permits I made sure to be at the rangers office by 6am – fully 90 minutes before they opened. Expecting to be 1^st or 2^nd in the queue I was dismayed to find a gaggle of people already there – some since one or two am!! The effort was just enough, however, as I bagged the final two permits to start the next morning. A chilled day followed with a great bear sighting in the evening – just when I didn’t have my camera with me – doh!

So, at the crack of 8.15am, a good couple of hours after most others, we hit the trail from Happy Isles and the beginning of an ascent that would eventually take us to nearly 10,000ft from the valley floor at 4,000. We were travelling lighter than almost everyone else we saw but 5 days food for two people inevitably feels heavy.

Indian Paintbrush - the flowers are amazing

A longish first day saw us reach the backpacker area at Tuolomne campground to keep on a 10day or so schedule. Day 2 takes you up the beautiful Lyell Canyon with crystal clear rivers rushing over smooth granite slabs and up to the first pass over 10,000ft. By the end of day 2 we started to pull ahead, ever so slightly, of times I did back in 2005. This set the tone for the rest of the trip as, each day, we would arrive at the “2005” point slightly earlier and forge a few more miles. Some days this was fine, other either Lynn or I crashed mid-afternoon and had to be coaxed back into life. Despite our food being calorifically adequate, it’s volume is smaller than we are used to so hunger seems to be an unavoidable part of the first few days.

Enlightenment on Pinchot Pass

Anyone who has undertaken a wilderness trip of more than a couple of days will understand the changes that occur – the camp routine becomes established, lunchtime or simply the chance to sit on a rock for 5 minutes are cherished, the mind frees up – firstly flooding the brain with random thoughts and plans for tomorrow, next week, the rest of your life and then calming, stilling and accepting its freedom.

Whilst thoughts of fresh bread, ground coffee and various culinary delights pop up now and again, you also learn to appreciate simple, free things like a cool breeze, a comfy rock slab to lie on in the sun, the scent of the trailside flowers,

This JMT is jolly hard work!

At breakfast time on the 6^th day we reached Muir Trail Ranch and received our food re-supply. The rucksacs were heavy once more but we had the remaining 5 days food to see us to Whitney Portal. Higher now, the trail is mostly above the tree line in the amazing Alpine upper valleys with chains of lakes and water gurgling everywhere. On our 10^th day we approached Mt Whitney and decided to reward ourselves for the 5.30am starts and 6.30pm finishes that had become our routine. Rather than continue over the summit to complete on the Saturday late evening we would take a full afternoon rest and enjoy the finale in the morning. Blissfull! – a clear lake, no mosquitoes, warm sun and a whole afternoon to eat all remaining food, wash and clean and prepare for an early start.

Rugged Muir Pass

Return to life as we know it was not easy – the lift generously given to us by a kindly Taiwanese took us from a world of mountains, lakes and rivers where we saw fewer than 50 people each day and heard only birds, water and thunderstorms to a world of 6 lane freeways, airport security and mass transit systems. At 4.30 that morning we had woken at 12,000ft on the back side of Mount Whitney, by 11.30 that night we were at home in San Francisco east bay – dazed, bewildered, tanned, clean, exhausted and happy.

Really not so bad

2009-07-14T08:40:00.000-07:00

I have been touched by the comments on here and by the many emails I have been sent. Many many thanks.

I'm sorry if my previous post was a little terse and gave the impression I was feeling pretty sorry for myself. Actually I am fine and it feels like a weight lifted from my shoulders - it was always likely to be the case that my heart and passion would continue beyond my ability to keep doing long runs. In truth, the commitment was not where it was 10-15 years ago in any case.

Whats is liberating is that I am now clear about my own motivations and goals. This blog is for public consumption so I won't talk about family or relationships matters here but quite apart from that, there are just so many things out there to do that I already have the 1,2,5 and 10 year plans sketched out and can start working towards those - putting on a great long distance race in the UK, writing a book, kitting out a van to travel Europe and beyond, building or converting a home to live "off the grid" - they are all there waiting to be grasped. Alongside this I will continue to adventure and push myself in the hills and mountains.

...and this self indulgent little blog will continue as I travel and try to learn the capabilities of my camera.

Many thanks for your interest and support and please be assured - I am HAPPY!!! :)

End of an era

2009-07-11T08:02:00.000-07:00

Well, it didn’t work out yesterday.

My training had all gone well and I seemed well acclimatized. I also did not make the mistake of going off too fast. At around mile 50 (towards the top of Engineer pass) my body simply started to shut down – low energy, aches and pains, an increasing urge to sit down and sleep. By the time I reached Ouray I was in “death march” mode.

I had some time to think out there – all my 100 mile attempts of the past 2 years have ended in DNF with the exception of HURT (Hawaii Ultra Running Team 100) and that did hurt!! I love the mountains, travelling light, covering lots of ground but when it comes to races; I love being “in the mix” too – the competition, the adrenaline rush of catching someone, the buzz at aid stations.

So – Hardrock 2009 will be my last attempt at a 100 mile race. I have had 19 years or so of running very long and have been privileged to have the opportunities to do this. Perhaps in common with many other people, the head still wanted to race and dream for a little longer than the body was willing to support that idea but I am now reconciled and content with that.

I will still race shorter distances, I will still travel and adventure, I will still probably come up with near impossible schedules and epics but I will not push my body Ultra-long.

Many people have given me a lot of support, time and encouragement over the past 20 years to help me achieve my drams - I thank you all profoundly.

Big Day tomorrow

2009-07-09T13:36:00.000-07:00

Much of the Hardrock course is truly beautiful

The drop bags are packed, the wraps are made, the specially imported rice pudding is packed and portioned for each aid station, the toenails are clipped and everything is in place for Hardrock 2009.

I feel good - the past week has seen little activity on my part except for a team ascent of Virginius pass (where these pictures were taken). We have been sleeping above 11,000ft (average course elevation) and Lynn has been tackling some chunks of the course with me as support. This has provided the opportunity to take the ageing Subaru Outback over some challenging terrain - over Cinnamon pass for those who know it!!

Virginius Pass - at mile 75 - provides a steep challenge in the middle of the night!

Race starts at 06.00 Friday US Mountain time. Thats 13.00 Friday for anyone in the UK. THere is a Hardrock live runners site that intends to post aid station times - keep in mind this is a loooooooong run so there will be long gaps and also that, if I am running smart, I will not make any kind of push until after Ouray.

MY RUN NUMBER IS 137 and the site is www.hardrock100.com

If anyone wants to post a comment on here with their best guess of my time then feel free - we will see who gets closest and come up with some kind of prize!! I have great support and am really looking forward to the next Hardrock adventure. Update hopefully on Saturday night (US time)/Sunday morning (UK time) with the outcome. Stay well and have a great weekend wherever you are.

Mt. Sneffels - a 14'er that the course does NOT go over

Bloomin Spectacular

2009-07-03T10:10:00.000-07:00

The Continental divide and one of the easiest parts of the course

Unlike Jake and Elwood (Blues) I was not on a mission from God, nor did I have a full pack of cigarettes. I was wearing dark glasses, however, and I did need to cover around 930 miles to get from Reno to Silverton. Backing up a little - after pacing Eric to his excellent first 100 mile finish and 3rd place age group award at Western States I had managed scant sleep and then stood for hours in ridiculous heat for the awards ceremony. Driving East up to Tahoe was OK with Jez for company back to his car but then it got tough and I realised the only thing to do was head for a cheap place to crash - Reno.

The following morning, armed with 3lbs cherries, 2 large lattes, half of a 4 cheese pizza and a gallon of carrot juice I hit the road. (small aside here in case you think I may have sprouted floppy ears - US gallons are smaller than UK ones on account of a US pint being 16oz rather than our 22oz. This means you get smaller pints of beer but also that petrol is not quite as cheap as you might think and fuel economy on cars is not quite as bad as you might think in US cars).

The driving was mostly easy - on cruise control on quiet freeways - and occasionally spectacular as you crest a rise and see an immense stark white landscape covering the whole horizon. Bonneville salt flats is one of those "wow" moments the first time you see it. With a 7am start, a couple of stops for "rests" (US euphemism for a poo), coffee and provisions for the trail I arrived at 11,100ft Red Mountain pass at 11.00pm.

Time to saddle up and hit the Hardrock course then. No Alpine start but 11am saw me heading out of Silverton and skirting the beaver ponds on an anti-clockwise circuit; feet wet within 5 minutes and destined to stay that way. To cut a long story short the recce of the past 3 days involved a night out at remote Pole Creek, a night in Ouray with former race winner, Rick Trujillo and author of Colorado 14ers, Gerry Roach, a couple of strategic hitched rides up the jeep roads to Engineer and Governor and about 70 miles of running with 23,000ft of ascent. On one hand, completing the equivalent of the Bob Graham round at altitude with a pack around 10 days before the race seems stupid; on the other it gave me great confidence in my acclimatisation, fitness and knee-descending ability. Thanks to Martin Beale I now regularly check my ascent rate on the altimeter and was pleased to be averaging around 13-14m/minute at 13,000ft. Without pack and with another week at elevation this will equate to around 17m/minute or comfortably over 3000ft/hour in the race.

The view from Handies Peak at over 14,000ft - not much like WS100 then!

For those unfamiliar with Hardrock 100, it is unlike any other 100 miler in the USA. Over 90 of its miles are above the high point of Western States; around 80 of its miles include terrain steeper and or tougher than anything States has to offer and it is a "race" where weather can play a decisive role - in 1997 Mark and I got snowed on crossing Handies Peak and the prospect of having to sit out thunderstorms is real. Check www.hardrock100.com for info and some great course pictures.

Colorado's spectacular flowers - just coming to their best

Today is a rest day where my main objective is to consume calories (I made a good start with a cooked breakfast and short stack) and catch up. I feel that I have another sub 30hour or so Hardrock within me and that is so much better than I expected a couple of months ago. I know, though, that this is not really a race against the other competitors - it's a personal quest to meet the challenges of the course on the day in the most efficient way possible. I am determined not to make the mistake of running someone elses race again like I did in 2007.

Western States - scorching competition

2009-06-28T21:59:00.000-07:00

Close competition in the early states of WS100

Western States 100 mile took place yesterday and what a race it was - after the mild spring temperatures rocketed in the days before the race with downtown Auburn (the finish) recording over 100degrees. It wasn't just the heat that was fierce either - the competition for top spots saw racing closer than ever experienced in the 35 year history of the race. IN the mens category - 7 minutes separated positions 2 through 5 after 100 miles of racing and, as a result, there were 5 men home in under 17 hours. One of these was Jez Bragg - one of the UKs leading ultrarunners both on road and trail - trying his luck at the oldest 100 miler for the first time. After the disappointment of 2008 where the race was cancelled due to widespread forest fires, Jez came back with fire in his belly and recorded comfortably the best British time and position - 3rd place with 16 hours and 54 minutes. You can read more about his exploits on his blog here.....http://jezbragg.blogspot.com/

Jez Bragg - in control coming into Foresthill - mile 61

On a personal level it was a busy and tiring but satisfying weekend. We watched the race, supported Jez and took a bunch of pictures in the early stages and then I paced Eric Johnson on his first 100 mile event from mile 61 through to the Finish. Meanwhile Lynn was pacing Andy Black on what, for him, is meerely the first of 4 * 100 mile races he plans to tackle this summer as Andy is attempting the Grand Slam which I completed in 2005. In essenceit's been a hot weekend with little sleep, too many gels and not enough fruit and veg. Time for some de-tox and, in my case, an epic journey across California, Nevada and Utah into Colorado for the next chapter - Hardrock acclimatisation training. Watch this space in a few days for news of thunderstorms, snowmelt, bears and breathlessness.

Second Lady - Krissy Moehl - cruising the early trails

Foot note - anyone in the top 50 or so spots in the race just after Robinson Flat, mile 33, I have pictures of you traversing little Bald mountain. Contact me if you are interested - I will try to upload them sometime later this week.

Shastastic Summer Solstice

2009-06-23T17:21:00.000-07:00

Above Helen Lake - early morning on the longest day

What would you expect from summer solstice in California – blue skies, sandy beaches, “beach boys” on the stereo? How about snow, ice axe, crampons and frozen water bottles? Mt Shasta is “only” 14,000 and a few feet but sure packs a punch. From an elevation of around 3000 a road rises up from the town of the same name to a trailhead at 7000ft. A 45 minute hike from here takes you to Horse Camp at 7800 feet and a great setting off point for the ascent. Mt.Shasta is part of the Cascade chain of volcanoes that includes Lassen and Rainier – it’s in the north of California but only around 4hrs driving from the bay area. The “ordinary” route up Avalanche Gully (actually a lot safer than it sounds at this time of year) is just a snow plod but the amazing thing is that it’s on the SW face and yet has complete snow cover from 8500ft right to the summit at 14179ft!!

Chatting to another happy camper at the water tap I enquired as to his intended start time – 12.30am was his answer!! We decided to lie in ‘till 4.30am and were away at 5.20. Even at under 8000ft there was a frost and within 30 minutes we were on snow – nice crisp snow. Apart from 2 other laggards everybody else seemed to have been away hours before us and little dots of light could be seen all the way up towards the Red Banks – a band of rocks broken by some easy gullies which we would climb through. The sun was slow to reach our line of ascent and we were wearing pretty much all we had. We eventually reeled in quite a few of the early starters and there were a steady stream of people who had turned back – mostly because of altitude problems – something we were alert to having left the Bay Area at around 50ft of elevation at 1pm the previous afternoon (this was the whistle stop trip!).

Nearing the Summit

Through the rhythmic plod of crampons on crisp snow our attention was suddenly focused by shouts of “rock, rock” and the first of a few missiles came bounding down the slope. All followed the same fall-line though so it was easy to select a safer line. Above the Red Banks the angle eases but a keen NW breeze blew up and kept the temperatures low. Shasta is a huge but isolated mountain and gets a lot of weather – hence the amount of snow in mid June – so, with almost 6,500 to climb from our camp it had a high mountain feel that you simply don’t get on the Colorado 14ers or even Whitney. Approaching the summit pyramid a stench of sulphur reminded us that Shasta is a dormant, not extinct, volcano – with a sea of clouds below us we summited at around 11.20 and signed the logbook. It seemed that many of the guided groups had turned around below the Red Banks and of around 150 starters perhaps only 50-60 had reached the top. Some had started from higher up the mountain at Helen Lake but whilst this shortens the summit day it means that:

- You carry the camp kit up higher

- You camp on snow

- You probably start with a headache from the elevation

On balance we figured that the Horse Camp option was the right one. A steady descent with increasing headaches and lots of sunburn (we should have stopped sooner to put sunblock on!!) saw us taking down camp around 3pm. Back at the car at 4pm and on the road back to the Bay area for about 9.30pm – so, somewhere around a 33hr round trip from San Francisco and a memorable solstice. Next time we might take a little longer to relax in Shasta town after the climb but it was fun!!

Not far now - soon be time for tea!

Next up – pacing at States and then off to Colorado for more altitude and less comfort – it’s got to be done!!

Donner and Blitzen (Lightning on Donner Pass)

2009-06-12T15:46:00.000-07:00

After the storm

With Bay area weather grey and the prospect of racing at 14,000ft of elevation starting to loom large in my plans it seemed about time to head to the Sierra and tackle some hills. Also a good chance to see how the “new” transport works – I figured that buying an old but solid Subaru and selling it again at the end of 6 months would work out way cheaper than the Hertz/Avis options. A quick scan of maps reveals that the Pacific Crest Trail runs right over Donner pass on the I80 east to Reno at the 8-9,000 ft level – accessible in less than 3 hours and, since the PCT is 2,300 miles long, plenty to go at!!

A 9 ½ hour day took me down to Squaw and Emigrant pass where the Western States course starts and then a big loop over to a lake which the map showed as a possible overnight stop only the lake is still frozen and there is extensive snow cover under the trees. I need to get onto the South and West facing slopes where it has melted to higher elevations. In the end, a loop back to the far side of Emigrant pass provides the ideal spot at just over 8,000ft. I quickly chill off whilst setting up the tent and put on every scrap of clothing I have inside the sleeping bag – including a shirt over my head on account of having forgotten a hat. Still, there has been hardly a spot of rain all ay despite an unpromising forecast and now it’s clearing out with a few last rays of evening sunshine. After worrying about bears and mountain lions plus the odd “thwump” as pine cones fall from the trees I fall into a good sleep until – 2.08am and I am woken by an enormous noise reverberating from the hills. A thunderstorm seems to be about 4miles away – that is until there is an almost simultaneous flash and bang, crack, fizzle, pop – now I am scared!! I quickly figure that when the lightning is zero distance away you never hear the bang and rationally figure that I can’t do anything about that – I chose a safe looking spot anyway – the bigger worry is that hailstones a little bigger than marbles have started to hit the tent and the wind is picking up big time. OK – better put on full waterproofs and pack everything just in case I have to make a rapid exit. The “fun” lasted around 2 hours and apparently made newspaper headlines down in Sacramento where they figured it was a pretty big storm.

One month to WS100 - snow likely on the course!!

Early next morning a hasty retreat seems appropriate only the clag is down now, there are 2 inches of hailstones everywhere and the early part of the previous days route I need to retrace is mostly under snow – I’m all geared up for a map and compass epic but this is June in California so it’s not long before patches of blue sky appear and it becomes quite atmospheric. Back to the car shortly after lunch and my first little Sierras trip is complete. Still grey in the Bay and about 20 degrees cooler than usual in Auburn though – those training for states are running around in woolly hats and fleeces convinced that by race day we will be in 105 degrees: El Nino maybe? Back to the UK for a few days now and then starts the build up to Hardrock – some time on the States course with Jez Bragg then pacing at the race then a road-trip to Colorado and fastpack the Hardrock course (always brutal but effective in getting fit and acclimatised).

Shadow of the Giants

2009-06-02T13:05:00.001-07:00

Just how we like it!

“Shadow of the Giants” is one of the few trail races around here (California) that you can enter without submitting to a lottery, doing trail work or achieving a qualifying race – strange really because it is a gem. Host Baz provides a relaxed atmosphere and, as an expat Brit who has spent time in Australia, is very welcoming to people from the “homeland”.

It’s billed as a 50k but turns out to be almost 34 miles. Every step of the course is runnable provided you have saved a little for the climb back up from the river crossing at mile 27. This year temperatures were pretty ideal with mid 60’s/low 70’s. Actually anyone out longer than 6 hours may disagree since they would have got a good drenching from the thunder showers that rolled in.

The race takes its name from the giant Sequoia trees, up to 3000 years old and the first time you see these giants it’s a real stop and stare moment - the trunks of some approach 20ft in diameter.

Having run the race last year I realised that this would provide good evidence as to my relative speed and was not expecting to like the results. From the off I was feeling the mild altitude (around 6500ft), puffing and huffing and my legs did not feel strong. Sometimes this is a good thing – strength builds after the first few miles and the day is good. This time it just felt like a lot of effort all the way but I was pleased to hold it together relatively well and came home in 4hrs 52mins – only about 5 minutes down on my 2008 time. Still good for first over 40 and a medallion to cherish :)

A finishing burst !!

Lynn went strong and consolidated her return to running form - slower than she remembered having done in the past but completed in good style and with a smile!

With a group of local runners we stayed over at the Forest Camp and ventured into Yosemite park the next morning for a quick circuit of the Nevada/Vernal falls loop. At this time of year the waterfalls are at their most spectacular and the “mist” trail should really be renamed the “drench” trail.

On the mist trail - Yosemite

Back at home it was a good weekend for my buddy, Tim Laney, who completed the set of “rounds” with a 23hour and 17 minute Paddy Buckley round done in fine style with low key but experienced support. Over the same weekend, Tom Gibbs was mounting a challenge on my Paddy Buckley record time of 18hrs 10mins. On a very hot day where he struggled to eat, Tom managed 18hrs 55mins to record the 3^rd fastest time overall.

The plan now is to head off to Donner/Tahoe area go get a couple of good hill days in my legs – long days, lots of up and down. Shortly after that a quick return to the UK and then I will be out with Jez Bragg – showing him the Western States course and hoping that he has the kind of run he is capable of. I will be pacing a new but superfast guy in the race – assuming I can keep up – Eric Johnson is local and has a 6 hour 50 mile time to his credit but this will be his first 100 miler.

Western States Training Camp

2009-05-25T15:03:00.000-07:00

States legend - Tim Twietmayer - 4 times winner and 25 times finisher

The title makes it sound rather austere – the reality is that this is a weekend where, for a small fee, you get transported to various parts of the WS100 course and given the opportunity to run on marked trails with aid stations in-situ.

Some 350 people had signed up for this pleasure including Lynn and me. As we left the foggy, cold bay area on Friday evening we were rewarded with clear skies, temperatures in the low 80s, expansive views of the still snow-clad Sierras, great trails and some good company.

Perhaps surprisingly, many taking part are not racing at States this year; in fact, quite a few were relative newcomers to Ultra having perhaps run a 50k or two and wondering what the Western States course and a 100 miles in one day might be like.

Saturday we were bussed up to Robinson Flat to run the 32 miles to Foresthill. This is the toughest part of the course; taking in the 3 canyons and with around 5000ft climb. Recent changes mean more single track and it was great to catch up with some familiar faces from years gone by – Tim Twietmayer, veteran of 25 events and 4 times winner was there as were folk I have previously met in Hawaii and Marty who I paced at States in 2007. The hardcore folk weren’t content with the 32 miles – they ran on to the river but for us that was Sundays fare – a mostly descending section of 18 miles to the river crossing then a 3-mile uphill grind to the waiting buses.

Best bits about the weekend

being able to linger awhile and savour the food at the aid stations. In races I’m always trying to blow through as fast as possible; grabbing handfuls of food to force down and mostly smearing it on my face
chatting to plenty of newcomers to distance all with dozens of questions and a lot of enthusiasm
chilling out (literally) in the American River
missing 2 days of the Bay Area fog
trying out the new Vasque Transistor shoes: super light, very stable and very comfortable

No time to do this in the race!

....and then on the homeward journey I found out that Steve Birkinshaw was forced to abandon his Lake District 24 hour attempt in low cloud and steady rain. I feel for him as I know the frustration of intense preparation brought to nought by the vagaries of the British weather. Bad luck Steve and I hope you find the time and the confidence to have another go. It sounds like you had the basic speed so you gotta try!! Next up – a 34 mile long “50k race” just outside Yosemite next Saturday – running amongst the 3000 year old Redwoods.