An ultra-runner - again!

Calderdale Hike

It’s been quiet on here for a while. Mainly that’s because it’s been quiet on the running front for me. Constant pain from the knees acts as a powerful disincentive for training. Couple it with the dark winter weather and the feeling every time I ran that I had been hit by a truck and you get a picture of a more sedentary life. Besides which, Lynn has been feeling mellower about running and racing. As I said to a few people – the fire used to burn bright from within, now it is a glowing log on the grate – something to warm my toes in front of and toast the odd marshmallow.

Four weeks ago I took the runfurther banners to Wuthering and spent a little time snapping some pictures. It was a bitterly cold day but the enjoyment on everyone’s faces was evident and I got the chance to reminisce a little about some classics like the Fellsman and the Scottish Islands Peaks race.

The day left me chomping at the bit to run a little myself so early on the Sunday morning I decided to head out of the door and trot around the Macclesfield Harriers club handicap route. Hallelujah – the knees didn’t hurt, I heard skylarks, found 20p on the trail and generally felt more alive than I had done for weeks. Somehow I had forgotten how life affirming running over the hills can be.

With all my layers of excuses peeled away it seemed only reasonable to run again on the Monday – lunchtime – and once again it was great. Well, carpe diem has long been my motto so before the day was out, entries for the Calderdale (36 miles) and Fellsman (61 miles) were in the post. In fact my entry for the Fellsman was well timed as the event has filled for the first time in many years and the organizers have had to turn dozens away.

Serendipity so often plays a part in proceedings and so it was an unexpected but delightful surprise when, the very next day, I received an email from Ian Loffhagen explaining that we wanted to put team in for the Scottish Islands race once more and asking if I would run. Wow!! This is a real honour, whilst I expect that sailors don’t slow much with age I am sure runners do but Ian seemed content that I find a suitable partner and there is no better man than Alex – “Woo Ha Ram It” team cyclist extraordinaire and my running partner from our last successful entry into this race back in 2004. I love it when a plan comes together!!

So, with the training upped from around 10 miles/week (I’m serious) to 50-55miles/week what could I do with the Calderdale? A week before the race I gave myself a stiff talking to and set off from home in sleet to drive to Sowerby and run the course. I was lucky, it stayed dry whilst I was out and I persevered to do the whole course. It took over 7 hours though and felt hard. Maybe 6 hours would be a good target for race day. Saturday went well; despite being aware of the dangers of setting off too fast (based on running memory rather than running capability) I hung with the leading group and was in 4^th at halfway. It seemed obvious that Jon Morgan was running well within himself – able to catch up to the lead at will and looking relaxed. Simon Bourne was breathing hard as he passed me though and I sensed that Martin Beale was working hard to open a lead from the front in the hope that he could then use his superior route knowledge to slip away. Maybe 22 years of racing and running long has given me a keen eye for the weak deer in the pack because, sure enough, I reeled Simon in on the climb up to Thieveley Pike and then overhauled Martin on the short rough section skirting below Trough Edge End on Inchfield Moor where the heat of the day was making itself felt more than a little.

Jon was always going to be way too strong for me but I was delighted and surprised with 2^nd place and with a finish time of 5 hours 31. Of course a few things hurt afterwards but it’s a massive motivator and I am now 100% certain to overcook it at Fellsman. Keep checking back for more progress updates to the big blow-up on May 8^th!!

Welsh Wanderings

After missing the worst/best winter weather for many years I was hankering after a mini-adventure and the weekly forecast seemed to be promising some clear skies and cold temperatures for last weekend so plans started to form.
The 15 mountains over 3000ft in Wales (the Welsh 3000s) are arrayed in 3 compact groups around Snowdon, the Glyders and the Carneddau. Steve Watts, Ross Litherland and I had enjoyed a run around them at about the same time last year and having covered the route 4 or 5 times over the years I knew it to be a good day out – especially for this time of year where there will certainly be some darkness hours to heighten the experience. So, the objective was set but what about fellow conspirators. Well, one person who can be relied upon for some potentially foolhardy fun in the hills is Steve Watts so, with Ross on the other side of the world, it was going to be a 2-up this time around.

The start of an adventure

The 5am alarm after a full working week was pretty unwelcome but you do what you have to do and I was soon on autopilot with the soothing sounds of Farming Today whisking me along the A55. By 8am we had a car placed at the finish point in Aber and were at the starting point of Pen-y-pass to see a clear dawn freshened by a biting north-westerly. As we ascended the shoulder of Crib Goch we started to encounter increasing amounts of verglas with some patches of old and very firm neve. Our “weapons of choice” for the day were Kahtoola flexible crampons – designed to be worn over running shoes – and set to be indispensible as the freeze/thaw action of the previous 2 weeks had turned the old snow into solid boilerplate. Of course putting crampons on early would be a great idea but we put it off and put it off until, teetering on the edge of friction, we finally bowed to the inevitable having made the job 10 times harder by waiting.

Getting to grips with the Crib Goch ridge

Once suitably shod, the rest of the NW ridge presented no difficulties and we were soon stepping out onto the famed Crib Goch ridge with just one set of fresh prints ahead of us. It was clear that this was going to be a classic day – clear skies, some challenging snow conditions and up before the crowds. We shared Snowdon summit with only one other person (try coming up here in June and doing that!!) and were soon trotting down the line of the summer railway to search out the steep descent to Nant Peris.

Across the Glyders

The Welsh mountains have fine character but they are arrayed in discrete groups and are close to the sea so, the near 3000ft descent to the first main valley took a lot out of the knees and raised temperatures by about 10 degrees. In fact it was to be one of those days where constant adjustments are needed to keep the temperature balance. With the first bag of hot cross buns dispatched we toil up the slopes of Elidir Fawr and re-enter the winter wonderland. The crampons are needed again half way up Y Garn and as we descend to Llyn y Cwn we see the big yellow bird. No, not something from Sesame Street but the RAF Sea King helicopter. It seems that its not just the usual practice exercise but an airlift of someone who tried to descend from Glyder Fawr without crampons and found a very quick way down. Indeed there are a few people trying this and we overhear one pass on sage advice to his girlfriend – “don’t hit the rocks too hard” – a wise man!

No crampons = consequences. Thanks Kahtoola!

This whole section is wonderful – wind behind us, wonderful ice rime and neve, a dusting of new snow, sun in the sky. Soon we are descending the gully down to Bwlch Tryfan and, guess what, the helicopter makes a second appearance to airlift another unfortunate soul who took the fast way down. The clatter and throb of the helicopter is amazing as he hovers 100ft above us. Whilst its reassuring to know that they are “to hand” should we need them it certainly makes us want to hurry along and get out of their way. The descent of the West gully from Tryfan demands care and attention but should be the last of the technical difficulties and we hasten on to a much anticipated cup of tea at Ogwen.
Sitting on the wall at Ogwen brings back vivid memories of the year before. Everyone else is coming off the hill, looking forward to a shower, a bath, an evening in the warmth with a beer in hand. And us? We are setting off into the Carneddau – the biggest upland area in Snowdonia. We know that it will be dark in an hour and we will be above 3000ft for quite a few miles. It is excitement and apprehension mixed but you have to live outside the comfort zone now and again. You have to taste a little fear to appreciate security, you have to hurt a little to enjoy simple comforts and, in any case, nature will have some experiences for us – experiences that we simply won’t get by bobbling around for a couple of hours in the sunshine – she doesn’t disappoint. Over the ensuing 4 hours we get snowed on, we get into the cloud so that distances and judgement of terrain go haywire, we get to see the street lights 3000ft below – so tantalizingly close but yet miles and miles away – and we get to see the majestic full moon peeking through billowing clouds and casting its cold light on the snowy slopes.

If its bling you want then look around – ice crystals falling from a clear sky, rocks encrusted with diamond rime ice, the moon like a huge opal hanging in the sky.

Bring on the night!

Well, time passes, legs get weary, tops are ticked off and, before we know it, it’s time to descend to the valley. Car to car is 13 hours this time – about an hour slower than last year but conditions account for some of that and I am really quite unfit! So, the Welsh 3’s – a great mini-adventure, especially for the winter if you are OK with the conditions and navigation. Of course, it’s really quite foolhardy in some ways so I wouldn’t recommend it to anyone except those who want to live a little!

The John Muir Trail

Garnet Peak - highlight of day 3

Incredible, Exhausting, Inspiring. It is difficult to avoid superlatives when talking about the John Muir Trail. The clarity of light, the intensity of the vast night-time skies, the diversity of flora and fauna – all combine with the rarefied atmosphere to take your breath away day after day as you wend through valleys and climb a succession of higher and more rugged passes.

In true Hartell fashion, one or two key elements of the escapade were done on a wing and a prayer. Having travelled to Yosemite a day early in order to obtain “walk-up” permits I made sure to be at the rangers office by 6am – fully 90 minutes before they opened. Expecting to be 1^st or 2^nd in the queue I was dismayed to find a gaggle of people already there – some since one or two am!! The effort was just enough, however, as I bagged the final two permits to start the next morning. A chilled day followed with a great bear sighting in the evening – just when I didn’t have my camera with me – doh!

So, at the crack of 8.15am, a good couple of hours after most others, we hit the trail from Happy Isles and the beginning of an ascent that would eventually take us to nearly 10,000ft from the valley floor at 4,000. We were travelling lighter than almost everyone else we saw but 5 days food for two people inevitably feels heavy.

Indian Paintbrush - the flowers are amazing

A longish first day saw us reach the backpacker area at Tuolomne campground to keep on a 10day or so schedule. Day 2 takes you up the beautiful Lyell Canyon with crystal clear rivers rushing over smooth granite slabs and up to the first pass over 10,000ft. By the end of day 2 we started to pull ahead, ever so slightly, of times I did back in 2005. This set the tone for the rest of the trip as, each day, we would arrive at the “2005” point slightly earlier and forge a few more miles. Some days this was fine, other either Lynn or I crashed mid-afternoon and had to be coaxed back into life. Despite our food being calorifically adequate, it’s volume is smaller than we are used to so hunger seems to be an unavoidable part of the first few days.

Enlightenment on Pinchot Pass

Anyone who has undertaken a wilderness trip of more than a couple of days will understand the changes that occur – the camp routine becomes established, lunchtime or simply the chance to sit on a rock for 5 minutes are cherished, the mind frees up – firstly flooding the brain with random thoughts and plans for tomorrow, next week, the rest of your life and then calming, stilling and accepting its freedom.

Whilst thoughts of fresh bread, ground coffee and various culinary delights pop up now and again, you also learn to appreciate simple, free things like a cool breeze, a comfy rock slab to lie on in the sun, the scent of the trailside flowers,

This JMT is jolly hard work!

At breakfast time on the 6^th day we reached Muir Trail Ranch and received our food re-supply. The rucksacs were heavy once more but we had the remaining 5 days food to see us to Whitney Portal. Higher now, the trail is mostly above the tree line in the amazing Alpine upper valleys with chains of lakes and water gurgling everywhere. On our 10^th day we approached Mt Whitney and decided to reward ourselves for the 5.30am starts and 6.30pm finishes that had become our routine. Rather than continue over the summit to complete on the Saturday late evening we would take a full afternoon rest and enjoy the finale in the morning. Blissfull! – a clear lake, no mosquitoes, warm sun and a whole afternoon to eat all remaining food, wash and clean and prepare for an early start.

Rugged Muir Pass

Return to life as we know it was not easy – the lift generously given to us by a kindly Taiwanese took us from a world of mountains, lakes and rivers where we saw fewer than 50 people each day and heard only birds, water and thunderstorms to a world of 6 lane freeways, airport security and mass transit systems. At 4.30 that morning we had woken at 12,000ft on the back side of Mount Whitney, by 11.30 that night we were at home in San Francisco east bay – dazed, bewildered, tanned, clean, exhausted and happy.

Really not so bad

I have been touched by the comments on here and by the many emails I have been sent. Many many thanks.

I'm sorry if my previous post was a little terse and gave the impression I was feeling pretty sorry for myself. Actually I am fine and it feels like a weight lifted from my shoulders - it was always likely to be the case that my heart and passion would continue beyond my ability to keep doing long runs. In truth, the commitment was not where it was 10-15 years ago in any case.

Whats is liberating is that I am now clear about my own motivations and goals. This blog is for public consumption so I won't talk about family or relationships matters here but quite apart from that, there are just so many things out there to do that I already have the 1,2,5 and 10 year plans sketched out and can start working towards those - putting on a great long distance race in the UK, writing a book, kitting out a van to travel Europe and beyond, building or converting a home to live "off the grid" - they are all there waiting to be grasped. Alongside this I will continue to adventure and push myself in the hills and mountains.

...and this self indulgent little blog will continue as I travel and try to learn the capabilities of my camera.

Many thanks for your interest and support and please be assured - I am HAPPY!!! :)

End of an era

Well, it didn’t work out yesterday.

My training had all gone well and I seemed well acclimatized. I also did not make the mistake of going off too fast. At around mile 50 (towards the top of Engineer pass) my body simply started to shut down – low energy, aches and pains, an increasing urge to sit down and sleep. By the time I reached Ouray I was in “death march” mode.

I had some time to think out there – all my 100 mile attempts of the past 2 years have ended in DNF with the exception of HURT (Hawaii Ultra Running Team 100) and that did hurt!! I love the mountains, travelling light, covering lots of ground but when it comes to races; I love being “in the mix” too – the competition, the adrenaline rush of catching someone, the buzz at aid stations.

So – Hardrock 2009 will be my last attempt at a 100 mile race. I have had 19 years or so of running very long and have been privileged to have the opportunities to do this. Perhaps in common with many other people, the head still wanted to race and dream for a little longer than the body was willing to support that idea but I am now reconciled and content with that.

I will still race shorter distances, I will still travel and adventure, I will still probably come up with near impossible schedules and epics but I will not push my body Ultra-long.

Many people have given me a lot of support, time and encouragement over the past 20 years to help me achieve my drams - I thank you all profoundly.

Big Day tomorrow

Much of the Hardrock course is truly beautiful

The drop bags are packed, the wraps are made, the specially imported rice pudding is packed and portioned for each aid station, the toenails are clipped and everything is in place for Hardrock 2009.

I feel good - the past week has seen little activity on my part except for a team ascent of Virginius pass (where these pictures were taken). We have been sleeping above 11,000ft (average course elevation) and Lynn has been tackling some chunks of the course with me as support. This has provided the opportunity to take the ageing Subaru Outback over some challenging terrain - over Cinnamon pass for those who know it!!

Virginius Pass - at mile 75 - provides a steep challenge in the middle of the night!

Race starts at 06.00 Friday US Mountain time. Thats 13.00 Friday for anyone in the UK. THere is a Hardrock live runners site that intends to post aid station times - keep in mind this is a loooooooong run so there will be long gaps and also that, if I am running smart, I will not make any kind of push until after Ouray.

MY RUN NUMBER IS 137 and the site is www.hardrock100.com

If anyone wants to post a comment on here with their best guess of my time then feel free - we will see who gets closest and come up with some kind of prize!! I have great support and am really looking forward to the next Hardrock adventure. Update hopefully on Saturday night (US time)/Sunday morning (UK time) with the outcome. Stay well and have a great weekend wherever you are.

Mt. Sneffels - a 14'er that the course does NOT go over

Bloomin Spectacular

The Continental divide and one of the easiest parts of the course

Unlike Jake and Elwood (Blues) I was not on a mission from God, nor did I have a full pack of cigarettes. I was wearing dark glasses, however, and I did need to cover around 930 miles to get from Reno to Silverton. Backing up a little - after pacing Eric to his excellent first 100 mile finish and 3rd place age group award at Western States I had managed scant sleep and then stood for hours in ridiculous heat for the awards ceremony. Driving East up to Tahoe was OK with Jez for company back to his car but then it got tough and I realised the only thing to do was head for a cheap place to crash - Reno.

The following morning, armed with 3lbs cherries, 2 large lattes, half of a 4 cheese pizza and a gallon of carrot juice I hit the road. (small aside here in case you think I may have sprouted floppy ears - US gallons are smaller than UK ones on account of a US pint being 16oz rather than our 22oz. This means you get smaller pints of beer but also that petrol is not quite as cheap as you might think and fuel economy on cars is not quite as bad as you might think in US cars).

The driving was mostly easy - on cruise control on quiet freeways - and occasionally spectacular as you crest a rise and see an immense stark white landscape covering the whole horizon. Bonneville salt flats is one of those "wow" moments the first time you see it. With a 7am start, a couple of stops for "rests" (US euphemism for a poo), coffee and provisions for the trail I arrived at 11,100ft Red Mountain pass at 11.00pm.

Time to saddle up and hit the Hardrock course then. No Alpine start but 11am saw me heading out of Silverton and skirting the beaver ponds on an anti-clockwise circuit; feet wet within 5 minutes and destined to stay that way. To cut a long story short the recce of the past 3 days involved a night out at remote Pole Creek, a night in Ouray with former race winner, Rick Trujillo and author of Colorado 14ers, Gerry Roach, a couple of strategic hitched rides up the jeep roads to Engineer and Governor and about 70 miles of running with 23,000ft of ascent. On one hand, completing the equivalent of the Bob Graham round at altitude with a pack around 10 days before the race seems stupid; on the other it gave me great confidence in my acclimatisation, fitness and knee-descending ability. Thanks to Martin Beale I now regularly check my ascent rate on the altimeter and was pleased to be averaging around 13-14m/minute at 13,000ft. Without pack and with another week at elevation this will equate to around 17m/minute or comfortably over 3000ft/hour in the race.

The view from Handies Peak at over 14,000ft - not much like WS100 then!

For those unfamiliar with Hardrock 100, it is unlike any other 100 miler in the USA. Over 90 of its miles are above the high point of Western States; around 80 of its miles include terrain steeper and or tougher than anything States has to offer and it is a "race" where weather can play a decisive role - in 1997 Mark and I got snowed on crossing Handies Peak and the prospect of having to sit out thunderstorms is real. Check www.hardrock100.com for info and some great course pictures.

Colorado's spectacular flowers - just coming to their best

Today is a rest day where my main objective is to consume calories (I made a good start with a cooked breakfast and short stack) and catch up. I feel that I have another sub 30hour or so Hardrock within me and that is so much better than I expected a couple of months ago. I know, though, that this is not really a race against the other competitors - it's a personal quest to meet the challenges of the course on the day in the most efficient way possible. I am determined not to make the mistake of running someone elses race again like I did in 2007.